How To Use Our Mosaic Tiles and Supplies


Cut & Nip Mosaic Tile	Create a Mosaic Flower Pot	Install Mosaic Tile Sheets

Cut & Nip Mosaic Tiles

Cutting and nipping mosaic tiles are an essential part to creating a mosaic. When cutting mosaic tiles though there are some basic things to keep in mind, such as

Always wear eye protection such as safety glasses

Cut mosaic tiles (especially glass tile) over a cardboard box or something else that will catch the chips and shards that are created while nipping.

Once you've got your safety glasses on and your box and nippers together you're ready to start. Either wheeled nippers or basic tile nippers (also called sidebiters) can be used to nip tile. Pictured below you can see vitreous glass tiles being nipped in half using both basic and wheeled nippers. It is often most effective to align the nippers perpendicular to the ridges on the back of the tile as can be seen on the picture to the right. This makes it easier to cut as well as helps the tiles to lay flat when gluing them to your chosen surface.


Vitreous glass tile being cut using basic "sidebiter style" nippers. Align nippers at the edge of the tile in order to avoid crushing it.	Vitreous glass tile being cut with Leponitt wheeled nippers. Notice how the wheels of the nippers are aligned in the center of the tile and perpendicular to the ridges on the back of the tile.

Additionally, when using wheeled nippers it's important to align the cutting wheels directly in the center of the tile. This will help you to apply even pressure and get a nice cut. However, it is different when using basic "sidebiter" style nippers. You do not want to center the whole cutting surface of the biters over the entire tile because you will end up crushing the tile rather than cutting it. Therefore it is important to offset the jaws of the nipper a bit off center at the edge of the tile in order to create a fracture across it.

Once you've mastered nipping the mosaic tiles into equal halves you can cut them down further into quarters as pictured above. Of course, you don't have to cut mosaic tiles into just rectangles and squares, you can nip them into any shape imaginable. Below you can see an unglazed porcelain mosaic tile being nipped into triangles. Either "sidebiters" or wheeled nippers can be used to nip a variety of mosaic tiles including vitreous glass, ceramic, unglazed porcelain, mirror, etc.

In addition to traditional mosaic nippers there are other specialty mosaic supplies and tools that can be used to cut mosaic tiles. As pictured below, you can also use scoring and breaking tools. Simply score a line across the entire surface of the tile with a tool that has a carbide wheel. Then use a plier type tool (running pliers are pictured below) to apply pressure to either side of the score line to break it cleanly


Here the carbide wheel of a scorer/breaker tool is used to score a line completely across the surface of the tile. The breaker side of the tool can then be used to snap it easily in half.	Running pliers are also an easy way to snap a glass tile that has been scored first. Simply center the jaws of the running pliers parallel to the score line and apply a little pressure.

So those are the basics to get you started nipping and cutting mosaic tiles. For more in depth instruction and cutting techniques consult a good book about creating mosaics. Be sure to check back with our website as we hope to provide further How To's including video tutorials.

Create a Mosaic Flower Pot

The first step to creating a mosaic flower pot naturally requires selecting a pot. Most any pot will do but for this tutorial we have chosen a basic terra cotta pot. Terra cotta pots are a good choice because of their wide availability and low cost.

Once you've got your terra cotta pot your first step will be to prime it's surface as shown in the picture to the right. A suitable primer can be easily mixed using Weldbond adhesive and water. Simply combine 1 part Weldbond to 4 parts water and mix. Then use a foam craft brush or regular paint brush to apply the sealer to the entire surface of the pot.

After you've let the primer completely dry you're ready to start applying your mosaic tile using thin set mortar as your adhesive. Thin set mortar is the ideal adhesive for a flower pot for 2 reasons: 1) It is waterproof so it will stand up to moisture that naturally occurs around a flower pot and 2) Once mixed, thin set mortar is like a thick paste in consistency unlike a runnier glue like Weldbond. This makes it easy to apply your tesserae to a 3-D surface without them slipping and moving.

Thin set mortar adhesive is readily available in the tile section at hardware stores. It can be purchased either dry in bags or premixed. Whichever kind you choose, make sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions. To avoid waste, you'll only want to mix up enough adhesive as you'll use in one sitting because any leftover will not keep until next time. Additionally it's important to only apply it to a small section of the pot at a time as pictured to the right. Otherwise the adhesive will start to set up and dry before you apply your mosaic tiles and you won't get a firm bond. While working, it also helps to keep the mixed adhesive covered to keep it from drying out.

Once you've covered the outside surface of your pot with your mosaic tile and you've allowed the thin set mortar adhesive to fully dry, you're ready to grout. In general, when mixing your grout you'll want to add 1 part water to 7 parts grout. This mix ratio will help you obtain a grout mixture that is relatively thick and creamy in consistency as pictured to the right. Some liken the desired consistency to that of oatmeal. Once it's mixed, the grout will remain workable for about one hour.

Since the surface of your pot is not flat, one of the easiest ways to apply the grout is to press it into the interstices with your fingers. This is messy so obviously it's a good idea to wear a latex glove while doing this. Make sure to apply an ample of amount of grout all over the pot making sure that every crevice is filled well. As you go you can scrape off some of the excess with your finger as well.

Once your entire flower pot is grouted and the majority of the excess grout has been removed, wait approximately 15 minutes before removing the rest. This allows the grout to set up a little and then you can use a sponge or mildly abrasive scouring pad to rub off the majority of the remaining grout from the tile surfaces. For best results an almost dry or only slightly damp sponge or pad works best. Too much water in your sponge will cause you to accidentally scrape away grout from between your tile which is definitely not what you want. Wait at least an hour more before using cheesecloth or another type of soft cloth to remove any remaining haze from the tile surfaces.

Once you've removed all of the grout and polished your tiles your pot should look something like the one pictured to the right. For a more finished look it is nice to paint the bottom and inside of your pot. Then your pot is ready for one last important step which involves applying a penetrating grout sealer to the entire surface of the pot including the inside. Since our terra cotta pot is a porous surface, applying a sealer will keep moisture from seeping through it and destroying all of our hard work. Now you'll be able to enjoy your pot's beauty for many years to come.

Mosaic Tiles Sheet Installation Guide

General Note about Installation Guide

The following general installation and grouting guidelines pertain to most applications. The technical service departments of major setting material companies should be consulted regarding specific installation questions.

INSPECTION

The end user is responsible for determining the acceptability of the product. Installation constitutes acceptance of tile order. The handmade character of glass mosaic tiles creates a degree of artistic variation in shade, color, tone, and size within each sheet of tile. Open and inspect each carton of tile to confirm shading consistency. Randomly select 5 sheets from different cartons to establish color control during installation. Before installing tile, blend sheets from different cartons to assure random placement during

installation. . As sheets are being installed, check them against control samples prior to placing them in the setting material to assure acceptable shade variations and quality.

INSTALLATION

Expansion Joints

Expansion joints are essential for the success of most tile installations. Follow instructions on expansion joints in the Handbook for Ceramic Tile Installation published by the Tile Council of America. Expansion joint requirements will vary depending on substrate climate and size of installation. An architect should be consulted when specifying the exact number of expansion joints and the location of each.

Cutting Glass Tile

Small format glass tile are best cut with specialty glass mosaic tile cutters and larger sizes such as pebble-style tile are best cut with a wet saw. Cut edges are very sharp and should be smoothed with carbide paper or a "white stone" available at tile dealers.

Types of Setting Materials to Use

Setting material products are available through tile dealers, home centers, and major setting material companies. The following are some recommended setting material companies and products:

Mapei: Adesilex P10 (bright white) nonsag mortar for glass tile. Mix with water or Keraply. Specifically designed for glass tile. www.mapei.com

Mapei: Kerabond Premium Dry-Set Mortar (Ker 102) mixed with Keralistic Mortar Admix (Ker 310) www.mapei.com

Custom Building Products: Custom Blend Standard Thin-Set Mortar. www.custombuildingproducts.com

Building Products: MegaFlex Ultimate Thin-Set Mortar (white). No admixture is necessary.

www.custombuildingproducts.com

Hydroment: ReFlex Ultra-Premium Latex-Modified Thin-Set Mortar. No admixture is necessary.

www.bostik.com

Laticrete: 254 Platinum Multipurpose Thin-Set Mortar. No admixture is necessary. www.laticrete.com

TEC (H.B. Fuller): Super Flex Premium Performance Universal Latex-Modified Thin-Set Mortar. No admixture is necessary. www.tecspecialty.com

CAUTION: When mixing setting and grouting materials with electrical mixing devices, do not exceed 300 rpm or the manufacturer’s recommendations. All adhesives need to slake (i.e. sit) 10-15 minutes after mixing and then be remixed before using.

Installing 5/8” x 5/8” and 3/4”x 3/4” Mosaic Tile

Use enough setting material to assure 100% tile surface coverage but not so much that it will “ooze” above the top of the tile through the grout joints. Use a 3/16” x 5/32” V-notched trowel and do not flatten the “rows” created in the setting material. Apply only as much setting material as can be covered with tile within 10 to 20 minutes or while surface is still wet and tacky.

Installing 1” x 1” and Pebble-Style Mosaic Tile

Use the notched side of a 1/4” x 1/4” square-notched trowel to firmly apply a liberal amount of setting material to the substrate. Then use the flat side of the trowel to flatten the notches in the setting material, creating a smooth, consistent setting bed approximately 1/8” thick. Apply only as much setting material as can be covered with tile within 10 to 20 minutes or while surface is still wet and tacky. With firm, even pressure apply sheets of tile — mesh side down — into the setting material, using a wooden beating block or rubber grouting float to create a flat surface. Carefully align each sheet as it is installed to create uniform grout joints from sheet to sheet. Allow tile to set until firm. Clean excess setting material from the surface of the tile with a damp cloth or sponge while the setting material is fresh.

Special installation information for pebble-style glass tile: To achieve a seamless fit from sheet to sheet, individual tiles may need to be adjusted at time of installation.

Installing 1” x 2” Mosaic Tile

assure 100% coverage of the tile. It does, however, increase the amount of setting material available to “ooze” up through the grout joints.

We suggest experimenting with a sheet or partial sheet of tile before starting the job to determine the best approach to achieving 100% coverage. Apply only as much setting material as can be covered with tile within 10 to 20 minutes or while still wet and tacky. With firm, even pressure apply sheets of tile — film/paper side out — into the setting material, using a wooden beating block or rubber grouting float to create a flat surface. Carefully align each sheet as it is installed to create uniform grout joints from sheet to sheet. Allow tile to set until firm.

Installing Face-Mounted Sheet Tile

IMPORTANT NOTE: Install Sheets Film/Paper Side OUT.

Film-Face Mounted Sheets

Once all film-mounted sheets are installed into setting material, creating small pinholes or slits in the film improves the breathing and setting up process. Once setting material has set up, remove the film by pulling it from the tile, starting at the corners and pulling downward. If tile comes up during this process, allow setting material to set up longer. Once film is removed make any tile alignment adjustments while the setting material is fresh.

Paper-Face Mounted Sheets

To remove the paper, apply a moderately wet sponge to the paper, allowing the water to soak through and dissolve the glue. (Warm water dissolves quicker than cold). Paper should be wet for removal only at time that it will actually be removed. If paper is wet for removal, but then dries again without having been removed from the tile it is VERY difficult to remove upon wetting it again. Starting at the corners, peel the paper from the tile. If tile comes up during this process, allow setting material to set up longer. Once paper is removed make any tile alignment adjustments while the setting material is fresh.

Further Installation Notes

Some setting materials manufacturers recommend applying setting material to the back side of the sheet of glass mosaic tiles (“back buttering”) with the flat side of the trowel immediately before placement of the sheet into the freshly trowelled setting material on the surface receiving the tile. This extra amount of setting material is recommended to help assure 100% coverage of the tile. It does, however, increase the amount of setting material available to “ooze” up through the grout joints. If too much is applied, the setting

material will, particularly on the thinner 3/4" x 3/4” and 5/8” x 5/8” tile, completely fill the grout joints leaving very little or no space for grout. If 100% tile surface coverage (no voids between the tile and the surface receiving the tile) can be achieved by applying sufficient setting material only to the surface receiving the tile, this “back buttering” step might be unnecessary. We suggest experimenting with a sheet or partial sheet of tile before starting the job to determine the best approach for achieving 100% coverage.

Water Immersion Applications

Mesh backed, paper faced, and film face mounted glass mosaic tile have been successfully installed in pools for years. There are many variables that affect the outcome of glass tile installations in water immersed applications: Skill of installer, type of setting material used, amount of setting material applied, weather conditions at time of installation, amount of curing time allowed before water immersion takes place. Regarding tile work in swimming pools, fountains, and other continuous water immersion applications, minimum cure time after grouting is 21 days before flood testing or filling with water. Follow setting materials

manufacturer’s recommended cure times.

GROUTING

Grout Color

Grout color plays a major role in the final appearance of any glass mosaic tile job and should be selected carefully. Grout color that contrasts with the tile color tends to create a “frame” around each tile.

Grouting

Glassmosaic tile has varying degrees of surface texture that will collect grout during the grouting process. While thorough cleaning after grouting will remove most of the grout, there will always be some grout remaining in the pinholes or surface creases. The amount of grout visible after installation will depend primarily on the color contrast between grout color and tile color, how well the tiles were cleaned during grouting, and viewing distance. Grouting may be done after tile is firmly set – approximately 24 hours after installation. Apply grout, sanded or un-sanded, with a rubber float, making sure that grout joints are completely full and free of voids and pits. Clean the surface with a clean, damp sponge. Allow grout to set firm or until haze forms on the tile and the grout in the joints sets firm. Use a soft, clean, dry cloth to polish off haze and remaining grout residue. Final cleaning of grout haze and tile polishing is done with clean, dry cheesecloth within 24 hours of grouting.

Special grouting information for pebble-style glass tile: Once grout joints are filled with grout and the surface is cleaned with a sponge, the grout joints become considerably wider due to the remaining amount of visible grout in the joint. The amount of grout in the joint can be reduced to achieve the desired width by running a piece of damp cheesecloth rolled into a “cigar” shape through the joint while the grout is still fresh.

CLEANING & MAINTENANCE

Normal cleaning of glass mosaic tiles and other mosaic supplies can be done with room temperature water and a rag. For a more thorough cleaning and to remove stubborn dirt and stains, use any of the many tile and grout cleaners available through tile dealers or home centers. The Tile Council of America offers detailed grout cleaning information on its website, www.tileusa.com (under “Technical Services” scroll text down to “Tile Technical Reference Library”, click “frequently asked questions and answers”, click “Cleaning Grout”).

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